For two years my son (7) had the desire to have a pet snake. Finally he bought a couple of snakes with a terrarium.
To keep the snakes at a comfortable environment for them we need to monitor the temperature and the humidity. So we bought an analogue humidity/temperature sensor and discovered that it wasn't all that easy to keep both at a good level. As I was dying to start a project with my newly bought Arduino Uno it seemed a good idea to use a humidity / temperature sensor and let the Arduino do the automation of temperature and humidity in the terrarium. Therefor I bought a DTH22 humidity / temperature sensor and a LCD I2C 16x2 display and had a go. This tutorial is the basis of this project.
There is no automation whatsoever in this tutorial. Just the use of the DTH22 and a LCD I2C display. I have seen an other tutorial for this purpose, but this was using an LCD without the I2C.
If you don't have the I2C connected to your LCD please have a look at by ThothLoki Hardware Required. Any 5V Arduino (in this case Arduino Uno R3). DTH22 Humidity / temperature sensor.
LCD 16x2 display with I2C mounted to it. Breadboard. 6 male/male jumper wires. 4 male/female jumper wires Needed Libraries. Before we start I like the LCD 16x2 with an I2C mounted because it saves you the trouble of all the pins that might or might not need to be connected to the Arduino.
Lcd Display Screen
You only need 4 jumper wires and thats it. The display has an I2C address to accept commands or send messages. The downside is that you need to figure out which address it uses before you can continue. I won't me going into the details here, but at the you can read everything about it. In my case our device uses the 0x3F address, if your device also uses this address you're lucky, you can just copy our code. Hook-up the breadboard to the Arduino The DHT22 sensor as well as the LCD 1602 I2C use a 5V power supply. Therefore I connected the 5V pin on my Arduino to the red + row on the breadboard and the ground of my Arduino to the blue - on the breadboard.
As I want to keep colors in sync, on my schema I will use red cables for 5V and blue cables for ground. In real life I didn't use blue for ground, but white. Have been playing too much with car electronics I guess.
I will use a yellow cable for Data, an orange cable for SDA and a gray cable for SCL. The letter two will be on the I2C. Adding the DHT22 sensor Lets have a look at the pinout.
The DHT22 sensor (like the DHT11) has four pins. I place the DHT22 sensor on the breadboard with the front facing outwards. This way the first pin (5V power) is on the right (see the schematics).
I use a small red jumper cable to connect the 5V VCC to the 5V (+) row on the breadboard. And a small blue jumper cable to connect the ground to the ground (-) row on the breadboard. I took a long yellow cable to connect the second pin, the data pin, to the Arduino. As it is digital data, I connected this to data port 4 on the Arduino.
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In other examples you will probably see people using port 7, both will work. I used port 4 because I anticpated that I will use more data ports and wanted to save port 7 just in case. You will also see this in the schema's. The back of the LCD 16x2 I2C display The code Remember for the screen you can have different address' to connect to.
My I2C uses address 0x3F (see part 'Before we start') so beware that my code is setup for this address. Remember the libraries needed ( Download these libraries, unzip them and place these in the libraries directroy of your project. Then upload the code to your Arduino and check the humidity and temperature of your terrarium (or server cabinet, or refrigerator or just your living room).
Display a temperature Reads the temperature from a DS18B20 and displays the result on the LCD Code Example: low b.2; Initialise LCD output pause 500; Waif for LCD to initialise main: readtemp c.1, b0; Read DS18B20 on pin C.1 bintoascii b0, b1,b2,b3; Convert temperature to ascii digits serout b.2, n2400, ( 254, $80 ); First line of display serout b.2, n2400, ( 'Temperature' ); Display 'Temperature' serout b.2, n2400, ( 254, $C0 ); Second line of display serout b.2, n2400, ( b1, b2, b3, 'C' ); Display the temperature pause 1000; Waif a second goto main; Display latest temperature. Combined serout commands It is sometimes convenient to show separate serout commands for program clarity, but at other times it may be be more convenient (and will usually use less program space) to combine multiple serout commands into one. The following example shows two subroutines, both will send the same output when called. Code Example: Sub1: serout b.2, n2400, ( 254, $80 ) serout b.2, n2400, ( 'Temperature' ) serout b.2, n2400, ( 254, $C0 ) serout b.2, n2400, ( b1, b2, b3, 'C' ) return Sub2: serout b.2, n2400, ( 254, $80, 'Temperature', 254, $C0, b1, b2, b3, 'C' ) return.
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In this instructable I will show you how I connected a serial LCD 16X2 to an Arduino UNO. There are lots of instructables and tutorials showing you how to connect a regular LCD to an Arduino but not many showing a serial LCD and on my Arduino the PINS to attach the UART pins are hidden. With this instructable I will shed some light on this issue:) One of the reasons why you would be using a serial LCD is the fact that it uses only 4 PINS instead of 16. The UART or serial module that is attached to the back of the LCD is responsible for sending and receiving serial communications between the Arduino and the LCD and it has a onboard potentiometer to adjust the brightness of the screen. What you need for this project is:. An Arduino UNO. Serial LCD a 16X2.
and 4 jumper wires male to female. I will use 4 colored jumper wires to make it easy. There are 4 pins on the UART labeled GND, VCC, SDA and SCL. Use the red wire to connect the VCC from the UART to the VCC on the Arduino Use the black wire to connect the GND from the UART to the GND on the Arduino Use the green Wire to connect the SDA from the UART to the SDA on the Arduino And finally use the yellow wire to connect the SCL from the UART to the SCL on the Arduino NOTE: The SDA and SCL PINS on the Arduino are labeled on the back of the board, use the pictures as guidelines This is it for wiring, it is easy.
Then load the Arduino IDE and upload the sketch to the Arduino. Step one is to download the Liquid Crystal library if you haven't done so already. I will add a zip file with the library for Windows or you can go the site and download it yourself. Once you have the library, extract the contents in the Arduino library folder on your computer. On my computer the default location was C: programfiles Arduino library.
I attached a copy of the sketch I used in this instructable, Here is the breakdown: First you need to load the libraries, we will load wire.h, LCD.h and LiquidCrystalI2C.h //load libraries #include wire.h #include LCD.h #include LiquidCrystalI2C.h Then we need to define variables. In this section just copy it as is because it tells the IDE where to find the PCF8574A and how to interact with the LCD to turn on the backlight, the read pin, the write pin and data pins etc. //Define variables #define I2CADDR 0x27 //Define I2C Address where the PCF8574A is #define BACKLIGHTPIN 3 #define Enpin 2 #define Rwpin 1 #define Rspin 0 #define D4pin 4 #define D5pin 5 #define D6pin 6 #define D7pin 7 Another line is needed to initialize the LCD, this is done through an array which includes the variables that we defined earlier. //Initialise the LCD LiquidCrystalI2C lcd(I2CADDR, Enpin,Rwpin,Rspin,D4pin,D5pin,D6pin,D7pin); In the void set up, we start by telling the IDE that we are dealing with a 16X2 LCD lcd.begin (16,2); Then I turn on the back light (always good to have a lit LCD), notice it is the same variable from above.
Lcd.setBacklightPin(BACKLIGHTPIN,POSITIVE); lcd.setBacklight(HIGH); Then I tell it to go to the first line at left most position lcd.setCursor(0,0); and print lcd.print('I just made an'); then move the cursor to the second line and the left most position lcd.setCursor(0,1); and print: lcd.print('Instructable:)'); There is void loop because the program need a loop to compile but it should remain empty. And that's it. Very simple, if you follow these instructions the LCD will output anything you type in this code. Half-life opposing force download full free. There is a detailed video in the next step. Attachments. Ok I got mine figured out. Here's where I got the answer, and this is a great, packed-with-info video: At one point he mentions that there are three jumpers on the back of the I2C backpack (mine are labeled A0, A1, and A2) which are unsoldered.
This instructable assumes what is in the video above - that the baseline serial address for the backpack is 0x27. Well I read on the Amazon reviews where I got my serial LCD that I'm supposed to be using 0x3F as the address. The backpack does NOT have anything soldered in the jumpers area so basically whoever made the backpack I have is not following the convention at all. The 0x27 address shows up over and over in tutorials, but is apparently not always the case.
I didn't have to do this, but if you don't know the serial address, you can use this link to write code to find it for you. 4 months ago.
Product Details Have you considered the of this kit? This serial LCD kit includes a 16x2 LCD together with a small 'serial interface' PCB fitted with a PICAXE-18M2 chip. The on-board PICAXE-18M2 chip is provided pre-programmed with the open-source AXE133 firmware, which allows this on-board 18M2 chip to act as a 'slave' serial driver for the LCD display. This allows your main project to display text on the serial LCD via simple serout commands, such as serout B.7, N2400, ('Hello') The control codes are identical to our popular module, so this kit can be used as an altenate to the AXE033. On this board the slave chip is a completely normal 18M2, so it can also be reprogrammed whenever you want (e.g. To change the power-up welcome message or even temporarily 'borrowed' for another project!). Click on the resources tab above to download the AXE133 BASIC firmware file.
Self assembly kit including 16x2 LCD display, 18M2, PCB and all components - requires simple soldering.
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